Cheval Blanc 1994

Dark ruby/purple-colored, with a complex, spicy, tobacco, vanilla, blackcurrant, mineral, and floral-scented nose, the 1994 is a bigger, more structured wine than the 1993, its older sibling, but is it better? The wine finishes with mouthsearing tannin, which detracts from the otherwise impressive aromatics and sweet, medium-bodied, lush attack. As I have written many times in the past, Cheval Blanc has a tendency to fatten up, put on weight, and expand both aromatically and texturally with age, so perhaps this wine will move in that direction. If it does, my rating will appear unduly conservative. But if the tannin continues to taste astringent and the fruit begins to fade, then I will have overrated the 1994.

Anticipated maturity: 2002-2017